Place fencing alongside the row when you plants
peas in the spring. Lean the fence at a
45-degree angle to the ground, away from the
pea plants, and supports it with posts. The
peas climb the fence, and it’s easy to pick
them because they hang through to the underside of the fence.
When the peas are about finished producing, he plants cucumbers in the
same
row. "The cucumbers are the strongest and cleanest I’ve ever raised.
By keeping the vines off the ground, I have less trouble with pests.”
Plants for Hummingbirds
These tiny birds use a lot of energy — in fact, they need to eat about half their body weight each day. Their diet consists of both nectar and insects. For nectar, hummingbirds are especially attracted to red and orange flowers with tubular-shaped blooms. Some of their favorites include sages, such as pineapple, anise and scarlet sage.
They also like honeysuckles (Lonicera spp.), weigela
(Weigela Florida), penstemons, beebalm (Monarda didyma), cardinal flower
(Lobelia cardinalis), four o’clocks (Mirabilis jalapa), fuchsias and trumpet
vine (Campsis radicans). Plant a group of flowers that blooms in succession
throughout spring and summer.
If you’d like to supplement the plants’ nectar with artificial nectar,
hang a special
hummingbird feeder in the shade. You can buy hummingbird nectar at your
local
bird enthusiast store or garden center.
Or you can make a solution of one part cane sugar and four parts water.
Dissolve the sugar in boiling water, cool the solution and fill the feeders.
You can
make large batches at a time and store the unused liquid in the refrigerator
indefinitely. Don’t use honey, artificial sweeteners or corn syrup — they
can be
bad for the birds.
Clean and refill the feeder at least once a week. If you need more than
water to
clean the feeder, use vinegar. Soaps or detergents can leave behind harmful
residues.
As we mentioned, hummingbirds eat insects as well as nectar. Some bird
enthusiasts place ripe, peeled bananas near their hummingbird feeders and
in
their garden to attract fruit flies as food for the birds.
Keeping Seedlings Happy
Plants are tough, and seeds and seedlings can sprout, survive and grow
under a
variety of conditions. But pay some extra attention to their environment,
and
they’ll reward your efforts many times over. Here are some of the basic
needs
seeds and seedlings have and how to fill them.
Warmth -- Most seeds can sprout and grow over
a wide range of temperatures,
but each type has an optimum temperature at which sprouting is faster and
more
reliable. Tomatoes, for example, may take 40 days to germinate at 50 degrees.
They pop up as fast as four days at 85 degrees, may take 10 days at 95
degrees,
and may not sprout at all if the temperature soars to 100 or more. Many
seed
packets tell you the optimum germination temperature. In most cases, you’ll
have
good results if you can raise the temperature of the medium a little above
that of
the average house.
Fortunately, there are lots of places around the home that provide a little
extra
warmth. Gentle bottom heat under the flat is preferable because it’s applied
directly to the medium, where the seeds are. Try the top of a refrigerator,
water
heater or furnace. Spots near radiators and heating registers are fine,
but not too
near--excessive heat can be as detrimental as cold. And check flats in
warmer
spots often because they may dry out quickly.
Light -- All plants need light to grow, but young seedlings
will benefit from more
intense light than adult plants. You can raise seedlings on a shelf or
windowsill in a
sunny, south-facing window with satisfactory results. You do have to remember
to keep rotating the flats a half turn every day or seedlings will keep
growing
toward the window and get lopsided.
You’ll have healthier, less spindly plants if you can provide some supplemental
light. And I’ll let you in on a little secret. Although they provide excellent
lighting
for plants, expensive, full-spectrum growth lights aren’t necessary. Ordinary
fluorescent tubes will work just fine if you use one warm-white and one
cool-white bulb. I like to hang a two-bulb shop light fixture with a reflective
hood
over the bulbs. The fixtures and bulbs can both be bought inexpensively
at
home-supply stores.
Plants need periods of darkness as much as they need light to grow and
develop.
For young seedlings, a cycle of 18 hours light and six hours dark is ideal.
I turn
lights on first thing in the morning and shut them off before I go to bed
at night. If
your schedule doesn’t allow this, you could use an inexpensive timer.
Water -- Moisture is important for seed germination.
Most seeds remain dormant until they are in a warm
environment where they can imbibe water--that is, soak
it up and absorb it. Keep seeds and young seedlings
constantly moist but not wet; otherwise they could rot or
their pots might get moldy. It’s also best to avoid a
sudden gush of water that could displace seeds or knock
over tiny seedlings. One way of doing this is to use a fine-nozzle
sprayer to gently mist seedlings.
Food -- Seeds store enough nutrients to germinate and grow
cotyledons--leaf like
structures also called seed leaves, that are different from the true leaves
the plants
have in their adult lives. After one set of true leaves emerges, fertilize
seedlings
twice a week with a balanced, water-soluble fertilizer at half the strength
indicated
on the label. If you’ve used soil in your medium, it will provide many
of the
nutrients the seedlings need, so you only need to fertilize every 10 days
or so.
About two weeks before it’s time to plant in the garden, decrease the plants’
water and stop fertilizing. A slightly lower temperature is a good idea,
too. This
slows growth and makes foliage less succulent.
Then spend another week “hardening” the plants to the outdoors. Start with
a few
hours’ exposure to shade each day, increasing to full sun over the course
of a
week.
Pest Management
The fastest way to unbalance your garden is to reach for a pesticide every
time
you see something a little out of the ordinary. This can be very risky.
Say a plant
has a few tattered leaves and a bug on it, so you automatically spray an
insecticide. Here's what happens:
Pesticide resistance develops. You kill bugs, but not all of them. The
ones that
live survive for various reasons. They may stay in a part of the plant
that the
spray can't reach, such as the crack between a leaf and a stem. Or perhaps
their
internal chemistry detoxifies insecticides. Either way, they'll mate and
pass on the
traits that kept them alive. Their offspring will have an even easier time
surviving
the pesticide. Soon, it won't kill any insects.
Good bugs die, too. It's hard to find an
insecticide that kills just pests. Spraying can
wipe out the good bugs and leave thugs.
Sometimes, the good bugs' behavior changes
after spraying, and they no longer effectively
police the thugs. And other pests may become
problems after spraying because
you've killed their predators, too.
Rabbit Repellants
Smell: Use these products around plants to repel rabbits by taking advantage of their keen sense of smell. Rabbits shy
away from anything with the odor of meat or blood on it.1.Dried blood meal. Very water-soluble: must be re-applied after a rain. Also is a very good source of
nitrogen.
2.Mole Med or Scoot Mole. A commercial solution of castor oil which is non-toxic to birds and mammals
when mixed with water and used as directed.
3.Predator Scent. Packaged bottles of fox urine (coyote for deer), available at Johannsen’s.
4.Repel animal repellent. A commercial combination of dried blood and mothballs.
5.Hinder (ammonium salts of higher fatty acids). A commercial product that may be used on vegetable
crops. Foods may be eaten one day after application.
6.Moth balls (naphthalene)
7.Human hair. Place 2 handfuls of hair into an onion bag or nylon stocking. Replace once a month.
8.Scoot Rabbit (a mixture of cayenne pepper and Caster Oil)
9.Used kitty litter sprinkled around the edge of your garden.
10.Animal lard smeared on tree trunks to protect fruit trees.
11.Onions interplanted with other crops.Decoys:
1.Set plastic snake or owl decoys in garden.
2.Set half filled quart jars with water around garden. No one is sure why this has been found effective. Perhaps the
breeze over the jars makes a sound similar to an owl.
Organic Insect Repellent
The following mixture may aid in preventing egg laying, flying insects. May be used on carrots, radish, onion and other
vegetables and flowers. Spray a small portion of the plant to test for leaf damage. If no burning occurs use weekly as
needed, or after a rain. May change the flavor of some vegetables.3 Cloves Garlic
1 Medium Onion
2 Tbs. Red Hot Pepper
2 Cups waterChop up ingredients, blend one minute on high. Let stand 24 hrs. Put mixture through a sieve (nylon stocking).
Mix with 1 gallon water, then spray.
New Lawn Care
Seeding a new lawn can be done in spring or fall, although fall is the absolute best. If necessary, summer seeding can be done
as long as you can keep the area you've seeded moist at all times. Grass seed can also be sown in late winter.
Preparing the Seed Bed
For New Lawns:
Rake and grade the area fairly smooth. Remove rocks, twigs, and construction debris.
Renovating Established Lawns:
First mow the existing grass as short as possible. If you simply need to over seed or to reseed bare spots, rake the areas so
they are crumbly, then skip to the 'Fertilizing' section.Spray with ROUNDUP following label directions.
Wait 7-10 days for the vegetation to brown and then proceed with the raking out process. Use a thatching rake or a stiff
garden rake to remove all thatch and other loose vegetation. It is not necessary to remove the dead grass. It is necessary to
prepare the soil so that the grass seed will make contact with the soil when it is planted.If there are any bare spots, chop the soil 2" deep leaving the clods between golf ball and marble size. You can rent a slicer
which will make preparing the soil for larger areas much easier. Run the slicer East and West and then North and South to
create a grid pattern. On a hillside, run the slicer horizontally across the slope. DO NOT ROTOTILL! If you do you will turn
over thousands of weed seeds that will be happy to grow all over your lawn.
Fertilizing
Now you are ready to apply your fertilizer. Use a low nitrogen formula such as 11-22-22, which is best applied with a
broadcast spreader. A drop spreader can be used, but be careful not to over apply.
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